DRIVER RESOURCES

Problem solving, instruction manuals, safety guidelines, and load securement

 
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Load Securement

Please choose the section you’d like to view resources on.

 
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Flatbed

The purpose of this section is to visually demonstrate how to properly load and secure flatbed loads common to Nick Strimbu Inc.  This overview is not a replacement for commercially available DOT or CVSA documents, but rather a visual reference of the application of DOT regulations.

 
 
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Securement

Rules to live by

  • Never exceed the working load limit of the tiedown

  •  In order for an article to be tied down properly, the article must have at least 50% of its weight in tie downs

  •  To secure a 28,000 lb article: ½ of 28,000= 14,000, with tie downs rated at 5,000 each, 3 tie downs are required

  •  Articles weighing more than 1,100 lbs require 2 tie downs

  •  A stack is considered an article

  •  Articles of 5 feet (60 inches) or longer require 2 tie downs

  •  An article must have 2 tiedowns within the first 10 ft and an additional tie down for every additional 10 ft. or fraction thereof

  •  Example:  10ft 1in long article would require 3 tiedowns, 2 for the first 10 ft and 1 for the additional 1in

  •  Belly straps do not count towards load securement for length

  •  Always use edge protection

  •  If a securement device is worn or damaged, replace it immediately

  •  Damaged belly straps can place you OOS

  •  Never Use Defective Straps, Winches, Chains or Binders

  •  Inspect tie downs within the first 50 miles of loading, every 150 miles thereafter, and every change of duty

  •  Ensure chains are not twisted; they can loosen during the trip

  •  Inspect chains, binders and straps for damage daily

  •  Use of damaged equipment can lead to insecure loads and violates DOT regulations.

 

Out of Service Chain Links

A-1

A-2

A-3

A-4

A-5: Bent and damaged links - OOS

A-6: Unrated replacement pin - OOS

 

Synthetic Web Straps

  • Cuts and holes at different locations across the width are additive for the length of the strap.

  • A 4 inch strap is Out Of Service if the total defect size exceeds ¾ inch.

  • A 2 inch strap is Out Of Service if the total defect size exceeds ⅜ inch.

A-7: OOS

A-8: OOS

A-9: Strap has severe abrasion - OOS

 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Skidded/Slit Coils

 

B-1: Cross chain all skids over 1,100 lbs.

Note: The use of “Trip Chains” to prevent movement of end coils.

B-2: All stacks must be secure from movement. Do not stack plastic wrapped coils.

B-3: Tie downs must cross at the center of the “eye”.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Standing Coils

 

C-1: Coil racks are placed on the bed of the trailer. Beveled 4x4 lumber is placed on the racks. Rubber cushion is placed on the lumber.

C-2: 1 coil rack per 10,000 lbs. This is set up for a 40,000 lb. + coil. This setup is for eye to the side. Eye to the front is turned 90 degrees. The outside racks must be within the width of the coil. For aluminum floors, place racks on rubber or felt.

C-3: 42,000 lbs., 5 chains. All chains are less than a 45 degree angle.

C-4: Always protect the edge of the coil with metal or double thick felt or rubber.

C-5: 2 chains pulling forward, 2 chains pulling rearward, 1 chain pulling straight down. Observe the rating of the trailer securement point. It is against regulations to cross chains in eye to the side coils

C-6: Spools are secured similar to standing coils.

C-7 - Eyes to the Front (Shotgun): 2 cross chains, 2 horseshoes and 2 straps

When a tiedown is attached to the same side of the trailer at both ends, its rating is reduced in half. When one end of the tiedown is attached directly to the cargo (vehicles/equipment), its rating is also reduced in half. This is a direct tie down.

When a tie down goes over or through the cargo, and is attached to opposite sides of the trailer, it is counted at full strength. This is an indirect tie down.

C-8: 2 cross, 2 horseshoes, 1 catch chain and 1 strap. Crossing chains is only legal on eye to the front (shotgun) loaded coils. Use one additional coil rack for every 10,000 lbs. Example, a 45,000 lb. coil should have 5 coil racks. Assuming grade 70, 3/8” chain and binder rated at 6,600 lbs.

2 cross chains = indirect: 6,600 lbs. each

2 horseshoe = direct: 3,300 lbs. each

1 - 4 inch strap: 5,400 lbs. marked

Total: 25,200 lbs. securement

Coil weight 42,000 lbs., = 21,000 lbs. securement required

The catch chain is not counted as a tie down, as it does not produce downforce.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Sheet & Plate

 

D-1: Cross Chain sheet and plate.

D-2

D-3

D-4

D-5

D-6

D-7: There are different acceptable techniques to mechanically prevent the forward movement of the product. When cross chaining, chains are recommended rather than straps.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Pipe, Billet, and Bar

 

E-1: Choking is a useful technique when different size product is side by side.

E-2: Choking pulls the product together, creating friction through contact. When choking product, always go over the product. Under, and back over. This ensures the product has proper down pressure. When choking with chains, you can place a binder on both sides of the choke. This will create a tighter group.

E-3: This load has belly straps, as well as the top bundle being choked.

E-4: Pipe should be belly strapped on each level.

E-5: Belly strapping each layer stabilizes the load.

E-6

E-7: Belly strapping stabilizes multi-tier loads.

E-8: Belly strapping between layers creates a solid foundation.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Guard Rail

 

F-1: Use as many tie downs as it takes.

F-2: Always use edge protection under straps.

F-3: Know the weight of the articles you are securing.

F-4: Solid lower levels due to belly straps.

F-5: Symmetric belly straps.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 Lumber

 

G-1

G-2

G-3

G-4

G-5

G-6

 

Be aware that rough cut lumber may be longer than marked. This bundle was marked 10 ft and measured 11 ft 3 in. creating an OOS condition.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Mill Rolls

 

H-1: Always choke the barrel, placing the chain at an angle, pulling back from the front and forward from the rear.

H-2: When using coil racks, use spacer blocks to keep the roll off of the floor of the trailer.

H-3

H-4: Load large doubles end to end rather than side by side. This allows for better securement and is easier on equipment.

H-5: The load on the left is belly loaded side by side. The weight is concentrated in the center of the trailer. 6 tie downs are securing both rolls. The ends are choked, pulling them together. The identical load on the right is loaded end to end. The weight is spread out over the length of the trailer. 6 tie downs are securing each roll. The ends are choked, mechanically securing the rolls from sliding.

H-6: The choker chains pull towards the middle of the roll. This provides superior stability to the load. Notice the use of coil racks and beveled lumber with spacers.

H-7: Chains or straps can be used on the middle barrel section of the roll. It is not recommended to use a strap to choke the ends, as the grease and edges can compromise the integrity of the strap.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Tarping

 

I-1

I-2

I-3

I-4

I-5

I-6

I-7

I-8

I-9

I-10

I-11

I-12

I-13: No felt to protect tarp from ripping on corners.

I-14: Top row of rings ripped from tarp haphazardly rolled under the front coil.

I-15: Rear of tarp not secured. This tarp will flap in the wind, ultimately destroying itself.

I-16: Rear flap not secured.

I-17: Felt not used, coil edges cut the tarp. $10,000 claim on finished coil.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 Improper Use of

Anchor Points

 

J-1: Binders should never be hooked directly to the rub-rail.

J-2: Chain hooks should be wrapped around stake pockets and spools and hooked to themselves.

J-3: Chains are hooked on rub-rail, and not taking advantage of the stronger spools and stake pockets. The hooks protrude outside rub-rail.

J-4: Chains should be wrapped around entire stake pocket and hooked to themselves.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Improper Load

Distribution &

Securement 

 

K-1: The weight is concentrated on the left side of the trailer. This could have been prevented by proper load distribution.

K-2: The weight is concentrated on the left side of trailer. Product knowledge can help when tags are hidden.

K-3: Load not properly secured. Could have prevented by inspecting at proper interval. Proper following distance was not practiced.

K-4: Damage to headboard from L-3.

K-5: Coil improperly secured.

K-6: Coil improperly secured.

K-7: Note the lack of belly straps.

K-8: $900 to reload.

 
 
 
 
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Training for the Garmin dēzl™ 780 LMT-S

 
 
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Introduction

At its core, the Garmin dēzl™ is a GPS Unit the same as you all know. Whether it’s Google Maps, Waze, Rand McNally, or PeopleNet, the purpose of them is to get you where you need to go in the most efficient way possible. No matter which unit we choose, none of them will be perfect. With that said, the Garmin dēzl™ 780 LMT-S is one of the most highly rated and dependable units we found through our testing. We do still recommend that any and all drivers double check everything. It doesn’t make sense to check your load 3 times but not make sure that where you’re going is the correct place. You have tools like Atlases, Google Maps, and Google StreetView to your disposal: Use them.

 

Initial Setup

 

1: When you first start the Garmin dēzl™ 780, you’ll see this screen.

2: Select your language and continue through the prompts accepting the terms of use.

3. Every time you unlock the device you will see this warning. Don’t worry, just don’t play with it while you’re driving. Just tap “Agree” and continue.

4. This is where you’ll be selecting your vehicle and setting up your profile.

5. This, why not phrasing the question properly, is referring to how many trailers you’re towing. For our purposes, you’ll be selecting 1. The only exception for this is if you’re setting up an additional profile for Deadheading.

6. Our max height, width, length, and weight are shown in the next few images.

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8. This can vary. If running Flatbed, you’re fine with 70 ft. If running Reefer or Booms, 73-75 ft. is more accurate.

9. The Garmin will use these settings to decide what roads you’re allowed on. However, setting the weight to 80,000 lbs. makes the device think you aren’t able to drive on routes that have a 40 T weight limit. Setting it to 78,000-79,000 usually fixes this issue.

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11.  When you’ve finished, this screen will show every time you unlock the device after the Warning Screen. The  +  button in the top left corner will allow you to add additional profiles if you’d like.

11. When you’ve finished, this screen will show every time you unlock the device after the Warning Screen. The + button in the top left corner will allow you to add additional profiles if you’d like.

12: By clicking this gear, we can rename or modify the profile in case you ever need to change it or remove it.

13: This screen will show you all of the settings for the profile.

14: By Tapping the 3 lines in the top left corner we will see this screen with 2 additional options. For this, we’ll be hitting Rename Profile.

15. This will bring up a dialog and keyboard and allow you to enter in a new name for the profile.

16. As you can see, our new profile is done and we can now press Select.

17. During the initial setup, this will appear after the first profile is created. For now, we’ll be ignoring his. Tap “GOT IT“.

18. Welcome to the homescreen!

 

Android Basics

1. If you’re inside of an app and this bar isn’t on screen, just swipe up from the bottom of the screen to bring it down.

The Red button is the back button. This does exactly what it sounds like.

The Blue button is Home, when the guide says anything requiring you to be on the “Homescreen” this is what you’ll use to get back to it.

The Green button is your “Task Manager”. You’ll use this to close out of applications that aren’t working properly as well as switch back and forth between different apps quickly.

2. This is your task manager. You can tap the X to close out of an unresponsive app or tap on the app itself to switch to it.

3. Here, back on the homescreen, this is the app drawer.

4. This is your App Drawer. The tab on the left dictates what content is shown. You can feel free to use the eLog available here but it will not be our official eLogs and would only serve as a backup as it doesn’t connect into the truck. You’ll mainly only use this for Trip Planning, viewing the map, voice command, and weather. There’s also a Service History app you can use to track the service and work done on your truck for convenience.

5. In this, the productivity section, you’ll find optional email if connected with your phone as well as contacts, calculator, phone, and the actual device settings (Which can also be found on the homescreen). It is not recommended you change any settings in this as it will be much harder to troubleshoot what you’ve changed. The exception to this is if you’re following directions from IT or this guide.

6. If you swipe down from the top edge of the screen on either the left or right side, you’ll bring down the notification bar. This bar is useful as, by tapping the area between the time and battery you can bring up some quick settings which offer a much faster and more user friendly way to interact with some settings.

7. This bar is the brightness slider.

8. By tapping this and dragging, you can adjust the brightness of the display. Note: These values will work when both docked and in handheld mode but the settings are independant.

9. By tapping the truck icon, you’ll be taken back to the profile selection screen.

10. The battery icon in the bar will open up a screen for the battery.

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Customization

 

This section will contain useful information on how to customize the navigation and user experience of the device. This includes everything from your wallpaper to individual road types and other routes to avoid using.

 

Navigation Customization

 

1. In your main settings screen, tap the Navigation option.

2. There are a few options here. Tap Map and Vehicle.

3. First, we’ll be changing the Vehicle Icon on the GPS Map. To do so, tap Vehicle.

4. Select your icon and tap Save.

5. Next we’ll be modifying parts of the map. This is the level of detail the map shows. By Default, the selection is normal. This only effects how many items show on the map and the amount of buildings that show on screen. It will never be a satellite view but the detail settings do make a difference. Try them out and find what works best for your tastes.

6. You can also change the map style for the GPS Map. 3-D is the default view.

7. These are all settings under the Map Tools area. In this section, you can turn features on and off. These are all of the viewable tools during your navigation. I recommend enabling Change Route to avoid having to re-enter your address.

8.

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11. Under Route Preferences you can fix a common problem drivers have when accidently telling the device to never ask about toll routes. This is where you’ll go to enable toll routes again.

12. Here you can see Toll Roads. The default option is Always Ask.

13. By using the Calculation Mode you can choose which routes the Garmin will prioritize.

14. By default, it’s set to Faster Time but you can change it to shortest distance. The Off Road option is to be ignored for obvious reasons. It will only show a straight line through the terrain to the next stop. Don’t try to drive up a cliff. Cliffs and Tractors don’t mix. Also, don’t drive through lakes. That would be bad. Tractors don’t float.

15. Another setting that can be helpful is Custom Avoidances. With these you can manually set areas and roads that the Garmin will avoid.

16. Tap Add Avoid Area or Add Avoid Road.

17. Follow the prompts on-screen continuing to tap the corners of the area or section of the road for the second option.

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19. Once done, the area will be greyed out or the road will be highlighted.

20. You can then add the avoidance into the device using this menu and any route that would normally utilize that area will instead find a different way.

 
 

Display Customization

 

1. This is where you’ll be able to make some modifications and customizations to how the device looks and works.

2. The first option we’ll look at is Adaptive Brightness. This uses the light sensor of the device to automatically change the brightness according to the situation. To explain further; When it’s bright out, the device will increase the brightness making it easier to see. Likewise, when it’s dark out, the device will lower it’s brightness as to not blind you during the night while driving.

3. The Theme option is another setting to combat the device annoying the driver while night driving as well as aiding in personal preference.

4. The default option is Automatic. This setting will make the device stay in while mode until 7:00 PM - 8:00 PM where it will change to dark mode.

Day - The device’s primary colors are white

Night - The device’s primary colors are dark grey

5. This is the Wallpaper setting.

6. The first 4 are photos that are pre-installed on the device. The second set of 4 are not usable.

7. This is the wallpaper that will automatically be selected during Night Mode.

8. The Sleep option is where you can change the duration in which the screen shuts off when the device is undocked. By default it is set to 30 seconds.

9. This is the standard we normally change it to.

10. Daydream is what they call screensavers.

11. This is so that instead of the screen going black, they will instead show either a clock, colors or a slideshow.

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13. By tapping the 3 dots in the top right corner, you can change when the device will show the screensaver.

14. Screensavers will only play while the device is not navigating.

15. If you find the text hard to read, this is where you can change the font size so you can see it easier.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Map

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Navigation

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Routing

 
 

Trip Planning

 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Voice Commands

 

1. This is a snippet of the full tutorial posted to the Nick Strimbu YouTube Channel. This part explains and shows the voice command feature and gives you an idea of how to use it properly.